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Grand Canyon National Park turns 100

Our family chose to raft the whole Grand Canyon on a motorized pontoon raft. Well-trained river runners can anticipate when their passengers should hold on for dear life and when they will be able to relax and enjoy being manipulated like string puppets. Our passengers were privileged to spy seven Desert Bighorn Sheep and two beavers on day one. Canyon wrens and Violet-green swallows greeted us throughout the trip. Clever ravens arrived on cue each morning, prepared to scour our campsites for food. These somber-looking birds are able to dive and somersault in order to dominate the sky and survive in extreme locations.

The deeper we ventured into this natural wonder, the more opportunities there were to see hanging gardens, waterfalls and unusual rock formations such as Redwall Cavern, a cave large enough to support a Frisbee game. It was easy to be lulled like a baby in a rock cradle and overlook the forces of nature which continue to carve the canyon.

At night we attempted to sleep under the stars on thick foam pads, but wind laden with sand left grit in our nostrils and hair. Lizards skittered around, some of which had red heads and black collars. We were warned not to keep any food near our tents due to the cleverness of nocturnal packrats and ring-tailed cats, of the raccoon family. Fortunately we did not encounter the Grand Canyon Rattlesnake.

The night sky was confined to the strip between the canyon walls, but made up for it with clear views of the Milky Way and shooting stars. The quarter moon was overpowered by the density of tiny “suns” directly above.

On the second day we were treated to a mule deer flashing its white butt on the shore and a hike up the Little Colorado River Canyon. Here the travertine rocks created aquamarine pools and ripples which we navigated with our life jackets on and a feet-first float in pleasantly cool water.

Onward we rocked and rolled through layers of sandstone and granite. The Vishnu Fault cracked and folded many layers of rocks. If one did not know better, they would assume the rock layers were as pliable as a pad of paper. The aroma of wet sand, crawfish and moss mingled and reminded us we were immersed in nature.

The Canyoneers raft company, originally called Nevills Expedition, has been operating in Grand Canyon for 80 years, therefore we felt sure we would survive a string of larger rapids with names such as Unkar, Escalente, Hermits and Sockdolager.

Our stop at Phantom Ranch required a steamy half-mile hike uphill to a small snack bar and rustic cabins. We gained an appreciation of the tasks mules performed to ferry supplies on the 9-mile Bright Angel Trail. Hikers quickly stripped off shirts and sat in the refreshing river, but we were only there for two hours while some passengers left and others arrived.

On day four we took a hike up a stream to Elves Chasm. We fought our way through the current to a pristine pool at the base of a fern covered wall. Some adventurous passengers swam behind the falls and climbed rock ledges, to leap from the 12-foot high cliff into the pool.

Later, we stopped at Deer Creek Falls. Many of the stronger hikers ventured up a steep canyon trail to a series of ledges and views of the river well below. My daughter, grandchildren and I chose to nurse our raw feet and sit near a divine spray from the falls for two hours.

The fifth day dawned with the anticipation of a possible hike up Havasu Canyon and the infamous Lava Falls Rapid. The hike proved to be impossible due to a lack of safe places to beach our boats. As we ventured on toward Lake Mead, the air heated up to an uncomfortable 100 degrees F. We soaked camp towels and sarongs in the river and covered our skin. Before Lava Falls Rapid, we hiked up a trail lined with black volcanic rocks, attempting not to touch their painfully rough and extremely hot surface. The sound of the rapids reminded me of an approaching thunderstorm and the view was as frothy as ocean surf.

Depending on where you sat in the boat, everyone prepared to be thoroughly drenched in Lava Falls Rapid. Since we were in a wide pontoon boat we were not afraid of being thrown out, but hanging on to sturdy bars was essential. The experience was superior to the best roller coaster or water slide you could imagine.

The following day was punctuated by frequent moderate rapids and an opportunity to sit on the outrigger pontoons where one could relax and feel the movement of the whirlpools and waves. At night prolific bats swooped and swirled while ridding us of mosquitos. 

The last day was tough because we had to be in the boats by 6:30 am with all of our gear transferred to our own duffels. The river flow slowed as we moved out of the canyon and met up with the brown sediment approaching Lake Mead. We disembarked at Pearce Ferry take-out and boarded various vans to reach our hotels and cars. We waved goodbye to our fellow travelers knowing we may never experience this geologic trip of a lifetime again.